Hair Cut Numbers Explained

While you are reading this, a man is leaving a barbershop disappointed somewhere. It’s a rite of passage that most men will have experienced at one time or another. Surely the barber followed the instructions and gave the haircut asked for. Yet the results are often more extreme than it is intended to be. Not fully understanding the numbering system of clippers is a recipe for disaster. So, where did it go wrong?

Let’s start at the beginning!

Clippers are used in barbers or at home to trim hair. Typically, they come with eight clipper guards that are numbered 1 through to 8. The number on the guard represents the length of hair that will remain. There is a 1/8 of an inch or 0.3 cm difference between each guard. This doesn’t sound like a huge amount of length difference. Nonetheless, it can make a significant impact on how you can style your hair, create and maintain the look. This variation is crucial for barbers to give you a quality fade or buzz cut.

Grading Numbers

The greater the number, the longer the length of hair, so as each number increases an additional 1/8 of an inch or 0.3 cm is left. The number used represents the number of the guard to be used. The numbers go up to number 8, which leaves an inch or 2.5 cm of hair.

Number 0 cut:

Using this number results in a bare shaved or bald fade look, with only a 1/16 or 0.15 cm of hair remaining.

Numbers 1 and 2 cuts:

Number 3 cut:

This is the highest number a barber will use for a fade or buzz cut. Scalp coverage is good, and yet it remains low maintenance. It works well for both thick and thin hair.

Number 4 cut:

A number 4 cut can be used for conservative hairstyles and cuts. There is little room for styling, but hair remains low maintenance.

Number 5 cut:

If you ask for a number 5, your hair will require styling and brushing. It’s the typical length for a tapered style, so products are needed to define and add texture to your cut.

Check out this amazing video on how to add more texture to your hair by Ben Arthur.

Number 6 cut:

Like 5, the number 6 is used for tapered sides, but now you are entering the realms of a crew cut if you have this grade all over.

Number 7 cut:

This number gives your hair a length of 7/8 of an inch. While still short, this length can allow you a variety of hairstyles. A French crop can be styled for spikes, parting, or simply adding texture and grip.

Number 8 cut:

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